Using freezer paper to create one-off designs is one of my favorite methods for decorating t-shirts and bike jerseys. You'll create a negative and a positive of your image, which doubles the possibilities! Let me show you what I mean.
I tie-dyed my bike jersey, but it needs another layer of pizazz. I like to be visible when I ride. You know the phrase: see and be seen!
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Front: bright but plain! |
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Back: same as front (plain) |
I had a border design selected that I thought would work: curves to break up the horizontal lines of the tie-dye, and an added bit of femininity! I took the design into photoshop and enlarged it to fit my canvas.
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Border: Modified from the original |
The black and white copy is placed under freezer paper and traced. The freezer paper has a shiny, plastic coated side. You draw on the paper side, not the plastic! Freezer paper can be found with the foil and plastic wrap in your grocery store. Be sure to use permanent ink (like a Sharpie) to trace the design. I have found that pencil and ball point ink lines smear when the iron hits them. You really don't want to deal with that mess! Usually the copy is dark enough to see through the freezer paper without additional back lighting. Use a light box or a sunny window, if you need.
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The tools for the stencil |
Design
Sharpie
Freezer Paper
Exacto Knife and blades
Cutting Mat
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Traced and ready to cut out
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Now you will carefully cut out your design with an exacto knike. The part that is black is where paint will later be placed on the jersey. Be neat and try to not cut past the lines. If that happens it isn't the end of the world, you can iron a paper patch over the top! This is a very forgiving technique.
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All cut out! |
I used the same motif on the front and back, so I cut two layers of freezer paper at one time. The next step is to iron the stencil onto the garment. Do not toss the parts of the stencil you aren't using! I assure you, they are like gold and will get used in another project!
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The "left overs" for another day! |
Put a piece of heavy cardboard in your shirt. I like mine to be about 10% wider than my finished garment. The fabric stays nice and flat. Check your placement. Use the underarm seam as a guide or make markings for reference. Set your iron to a medium heat with no water. Iron the stencil on, plastic side down. Do the front and then the back of the shirt. Check to make sure all edges of the stencil are secure.
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Ironed on and ready to paint |
Select the paint you'll use. You have probably made the color decisions while you cut the stencil. I tend to work a few steps ahead in my mind! I chose a few textile colors: Indigo, Green/blue Halo, and a Bronze Metallic. Keep your color choices down to three. More colors than that can result in a muddy look if your paints have areas that will be blended.The paints I use are Lumiere and Neopaque made by Jacquard. It is also feasible to use thickened dyes instead of paint, dyes just require a different cure and more time. The textile/fabric paints are immediate and they dry quickly.
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Not plain anymore! |
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Looks good coming or going! |
Pretty simple! And every one is unique. I hope you'll give this a try and show me your results!
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Thanks for your interest! I will get back to you within 24 hours! Have a fun day!