A Sweater for my Honey!

Last year, I started on a sweater for my husband. Knitting a sweater is a big project for me. The color must be chosen, the yarn dyed, the pattern selected. All of these decisions must be made with the intended wearer, if you want the sweater to be worn! The pattern was probably the easiest choice. My guy knows what he likes, and having sewn for him, I have a pretty good idea as well! Zip front; basic cardigan cut; pockets. No itchy wool!
A beautiful alpaca-merino-silk worsted yarn was the winner. Now for color. On the western edge of the Tucson valley are the Tucson Mountains. These peaks are not the tallest surrounding our city, but they are the prettiest. Dark browns, splashes of greens and teal, mahogany. This is what my man wants.

The Tucson Mountains

 This is what he got:

The shower yarn barn

Dyed, dried and waiting to be knit!

The colors really do evoke the mountains! To keep the colors flowing, I knit with three balls at a time. It keeps everything mixed up and prevented striping. The front and back of the torso are knit as one piece. This sweater design is based on a favorite hoodie pattern I have sewn many times. As a long time seamstress, to be able to shape a garment as you build the fabric is nearly miraculous! No seams if I don't have to! I designed the pockets to be knit as I went. Nice and deep, like a good pocket!

Sweater torso before adding zipper. 

Next: the sleeves. 

Start of a sleeve

I prefer to knit both sleeves at the same time. This guarantees symmetry! And the knitting is complete. You can see the stitch pattern in the above picture. It is a thermal weave, very warm, and interesting to knit.

Two sleeves: blocked

All that's left now is to sew the underarm sleeves and set them into the body. Back to those sewing skills! Oh, and insert the zipper. All the sewing is by hand. This is no place for a sewing machine! Soon enough, the sweater is being worn!

The finished sweater! Snazzy, eh?!

My timing was perfect. I finished the project a few days before our nighttime temps plummeted! It has been worn everyday since!

Freezer Paper Screening

Using freezer paper to create one-off designs is one of my favorite methods for decorating t-shirts and bike jerseys. You'll create a negative and a positive of your image, which doubles the possibilities! Let me show you what I mean.
I tie-dyed my bike jersey, but it needs another layer of pizazz. I like to be visible when I ride. You know the phrase: see and be seen!

Front: bright but plain!

Back: same as front (plain)

I had a border design selected that I thought would work: curves to break up the horizontal lines of the tie-dye, and an added bit of femininity! I took the design into photoshop and enlarged it to fit my canvas.

Border: Modified from the original

The black and white copy is placed under freezer paper and traced. The freezer paper has a shiny, plastic coated side. You draw on the paper side, not the plastic! Freezer paper can be found with the foil and plastic wrap in your grocery store. Be sure to use permanent ink (like a Sharpie) to trace the design. I have found that pencil and ball point ink lines smear when the iron hits them. You really don't want to deal with that mess! Usually the copy is dark enough to see through the freezer paper without additional back lighting. Use a light box or a sunny window, if you need. 

The tools for the stencil

Design
Sharpie
Freezer Paper
Exacto Knife and blades
Cutting Mat

Traced and ready to cut out

Now you will carefully cut out your design with an exacto knike. The part that is black is where paint will later be placed on the jersey. Be neat and try to not cut past the lines. If that happens it isn't the end of the world, you can iron a paper patch over the top! This is a very forgiving technique. 

All cut out!

I used the same motif on the front and back, so I cut two layers of freezer paper at one time. The next step is to iron the stencil onto the garment. Do not toss the parts of the stencil you aren't using! I assure you, they are like gold and will get used in another project! 

The "left overs" for another day!

Put a piece of heavy cardboard in your shirt. I like mine to be about 10% wider than my finished garment. The fabric stays nice and flat. Check your placement. Use the underarm seam as a guide or make markings for reference. Set your iron to a medium heat with no water. Iron the stencil on, plastic side down. Do the front and then the back of the shirt. Check to make sure all edges of the stencil are secure.

Ironed on and ready to paint

Select the paint you'll use. You have probably made the color decisions while you cut the stencil. I tend to work a few steps ahead in my mind! I chose a few textile colors: Indigo, Green/blue Halo, and a Bronze Metallic. Keep your color choices down to three. More colors than that can result in  a muddy look if your paints have areas that will be blended.The paints I use are Lumiere and Neopaque made by Jacquard. It is also feasible to use thickened dyes instead of paint, dyes just require a different cure and more time. The textile/fabric paints are immediate and they dry quickly. 

Use an inexpensive foam brush to paint

Paint is applied. Almost done.....

I paint one color, flip the shirt over and use that color on the back. I repeat this with all the colors I am using. I find that carefully turning the project over keeps the paint from smearing. If you are concerned about messing up your art, just wait and do the other side after the front has dried. Once the paint is dry to the touch, remove the stencil. Tweezers may be needed to get small pieces free. Leave the cardboard inside and let the paint dry for 24 hours before heat setting. Take the cardboard out before you iron. Once it is heat set, the design is permanent!

Use a press cloth and dry iron on cotton to set the paint.

Not plain anymore!

Looks good coming or going!

Pretty simple! And every one is unique. I hope you'll give this a try and show me your results!